Making Pattern For Princess Line

This DIY post is about how to make a princess line and raglan style sari blouse using a darted sari blouse pattern. This project deals with making of a princess line directed from neckline. This post could serve a base for making all the other types of princess line patterns.

Hello Dear Tantu Reader!

It was a great feeling to receive your positive feedbacks. I am happy that previous post in Tantu was useful to give you more knowledge of Princess Lines, their types and style tips. I had promised to share the pattern making of princess lines and I am here with it! You may read the previous post here, if at all you have missed it:

Princess Line: No More I Hate It! (click the link to read in another tab)

If you need drafting instructions for making a plain blouse, please click here. Find more beginner’s tutorials here -for making princess line patterns and raglan patterns.

Pattern Making for Princess Line Directed From Neckline

I had selected raglan style for making princess line blouse. My first requirement was darted sari blouse patterns. I made paper patterns of back and front bodices for a darted raglan style sari blouse. This pattern included seam allowances. I slashed all the dart lines. I also slashed the waistline darts towards necklines.

Princess Line From Neck Line - Back Bodice Pattern Slashed At Dart Line Towards Neckline

Princess Line From Neck Line – Back Bodice Pattern Slashed At Dart Line Towards Neckline

Princess Line From Neck Line - Front Bodice Pattern With Slashed Darts, Waistline Dart Linking Neckline

Princess Line From Neck Line – Front Bodice Pattern With Slashed Darts, Waistline Dart Linking Neckline

Princess Line From Neck Line – Front Bodice Pattern With Slashed Darts, Waistline Dart Linking Neckline

Back Bodice Pattern for Princess Line

Back bodice was simple to modify. I just cut the extra dart allowance and separated the two parts.  I traced the patterns on another pattern paper adding seam allowance at the dart line that has become princess line. I shaped the neckline. I marked notches for joining and grains for cutting.

Princess Line From Neck Line - Tracing Back Pattern And Adding Seam Allowance

Princess Line From Neck Line – Tracing Back Pattern And Adding Seam Allowance

Princess Line From Neck Line - Back Pattern Ready To Cut

Princess Line From Neck Line – Back Pattern Ready To Cut

I cut the back patterns. Final princess line back patterns look as follows.

Princess Line From Neck Line - Back Bodice Pattern After Cutting

Princess Line From Neck Line – Back Bodice Pattern After Cutting

Back Bodice Pattern for Princess Line

Then I took front bodice pattern. I stuck all the darts except the waist line dart. The pattern resulted in a 3-dimensional structure as shown. This process of transferring darts from one place to the other is technically known as dart manipulation.

Princess Line From Neck Line - Front Bodice Pattern Darts Joined To Shape At Waist And Neck

Princess Line From Neck Line – Front Bodice Pattern Darts Joined To Shape At Waist And Neck

I pressed the pattern over a pattern paper and traced the outlines. Thus, the darts are manipulated into a seam line, called princess line. I added seam allowance to the freshly cut princess seam. I shaped the neckline.

Dart Manipulation - Princess Line From Neck Line - Tracing Front Bodice Pattern

Dart Manipulation – Princess Line From Neck Line – Tracing Front Bodice Pattern

I marked notches for joining and grain lines for pattern cutting.

Princess Line From Neck Line - Front bodice with princess lines Ready To Cut

Princess Line From Neck Line – Front bodice with princess lines Ready To Cut

I cut the patterns. Final front patterns for princess seam blouse are ready.

Princess Line From Neck Line - Front Bodice with Princess Line - After Cutting

Princess Line From Neck Line – Front Bodice with Princess Line – After Cutting

I made sleeve patterns.

Raglan Sleeve Pattern

Raglan Sleeve Pattern

This way, I prepared pattern for my princess line blouse. Isn’t it easy to make a princess line pattern from a darted pattern? If you want to make a normal set in style blouse instead of raglan style, you may take a set in style bodice pattern for the same.

Making pattern for princess line directed from shoulder

For this princess line pattern, the waist line dart is cut towards the middle shoulder point. Remaining procedures of dart manipulation are the same.

Making pattern for princess line directed from armhole

For making this princess line pattern, the waist line dart is slashed towards armscye (armhole). Then, the darts are manipulated.

So, what do you feel? Was this post helpful? Please share your words. I stitched my blouse using a sheer chiffon material, which is the most care needing material. So, I promise you to come with stitching and handling of sheer fabrics along with the sewing procedures for a raglan style princess line blouse.

Dark green Chiffon Material For Princess Line Blouse

Dark green Chiffon Material For Princess Line Blouse

Thanks for your time!

Take care!

Bye until the next post! 

Sindhu

A nature lover and dreamer who expresses herself as an artist, fashion designer and blogger. Persued B.Sc fashion design at Karavali College (Mangaluru University 2003 - 2006) with first rank. Former lecturer for fashion designing at Gloria College, Puttur for five years (2006-2011). Blogger since 2013.

13 Comments:

  1. Very Nice presentation. Easy to follow.

  2. Well explained with pictures.

  3. pl explain calculation of darts esp the 3 darts.

  4. Gayathri Vinod

    Pls do how to transform basic pattern to a raglan pattern .. Pls

  5. You actually make it seem so easy with your presentation but
    I find this matter to be really something that I
    think I would never understand. It seems too complicated and very broad for me.

    I am looking forward for your next post, I’ll try to get the hang of
    it!

  6. Devendra Yashwant Dhanwate

    Very helpfull for needing people.

  7. Hi Sindhu, I liked your post very much and want to know how I could stitch a shoulder less raglan cut. I can send you a picture of what I want to stitch, but I don’t know how to upload a image file to this blog. I am talking about just a strip extending from under the arm to the back of neck like an inverted U instead of the actual shoulder. And the front neck being V. So the neck would look like an inverted U going behind the neck from a V neck. I can’t be more specific with out showing you a picture. I really appreciate your time. And hoping to hear back from you.

Your words make my day! Thank you!