This DIY post is about how to make a princess line and raglan style sari blouse using a darted sari blouse pattern. This project deals with making of a princess line directed from neckline. This post could serve a base for making all the other types of princess line patterns.
Hello Dear Tantu Reader!
It was a great feeling to receive your positive feedbacks. I am happy that previous post in Tantu was useful to give you more knowledge of Princess Lines, their types and style tips. I had promised to share the pattern making of princess lines and I am here with it! You may read the previous post here, if at all you have missed it:
Princess Line: No More I Hate It! (click the link to read in another tab)
If you need drafting instructions for making a plain blouse, please click here. Find more beginner’s tutorials here -for making princess line patterns and raglan patterns.
Pattern Making for Princess Line Directed From Neckline
I had selected raglan style for making princess line blouse. My first requirement was darted sari blouse patterns. I made paper patterns of back and front bodices for a darted raglan style sari blouse. This pattern included seam allowances. I slashed all the dart lines. I also slashed the waistline darts towards necklines.
Princess Line From Neck Line – Front Bodice Pattern With Slashed Darts, Waistline Dart Linking Neckline
Back Bodice Pattern for Princess Line
Back bodice was simple to modify. I just cut the extra dart allowance and separated the two parts. I traced the patterns on another pattern paper adding seam allowance at the dart line that has become princess line. I shaped the neckline. I marked notches for joining and grains for cutting.
I cut the back patterns. Final princess line back patterns look as follows.
Back Bodice Pattern for Princess Line
Then I took front bodice pattern. I stuck all the darts except the waist line dart. The pattern resulted in a 3-dimensional structure as shown. This process of transferring darts from one place to the other is technically known as dart manipulation.
I pressed the pattern over a pattern paper and traced the outlines. Thus, the darts are manipulated into a seam line, called princess line. I added seam allowance to the freshly cut princess seam. I shaped the neckline.
I marked notches for joining and grain lines for pattern cutting.
I cut the patterns. Final front patterns for princess seam blouse are ready.
I made sleeve patterns.
This way, I prepared pattern for my princess line blouse. Isn’t it easy to make a princess line pattern from a darted pattern? If you want to make a normal set in style blouse instead of raglan style, you may take a set in style bodice pattern for the same.
Making pattern for princess line directed from shoulder
For this princess line pattern, the waist line dart is cut towards the middle shoulder point. Remaining procedures of dart manipulation are the same.
Making pattern for princess line directed from armhole
For making this princess line pattern, the waist line dart is slashed towards armscye (armhole). Then, the darts are manipulated.
So, what do you feel? Was this post helpful? Please share your words. I stitched my blouse using a sheer chiffon material, which is the most care needing material. So, I promise you to come with stitching and handling of sheer fabrics along with the sewing procedures for a raglan style princess line blouse.
Thanks for your time!
Take care!
Bye until the next post!
Related articles
- Princess Line: No more I hate it! (varnatantu.com)
- What is a Dart and How Are Darts Used in Sewing Patterns? (whileshenaps.com)
Very Nice presentation. Easy to follow.
Thanks for your kind words Visala 🙂
Well explained with pictures.
Thank you Indrani! Your words mean a lot to me 🙂 Sorry, your comment was in spam folder 🙁
pl explain calculation of darts esp the 3 darts.
Hi Arja,
Hope you are doing good. Accept my apology for my late reply. Will put up a post about darted and yoked blouse as and when possible by me. If you are using this pattern for making of princess-line pattern or raglan patterns, then please refer to the following links:
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/01/22/diy-sari-blouse-basic-pattern/
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/01/29/how-to-make-princess-line-patterns-easily
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/02/07/raglan-bodice-sleeve-pattern-styletips
Hope the link above would be useful for you 🙂 TC! Keep smiling! Keep visiting 🙂
Pls do how to transform basic pattern to a raglan pattern .. Pls
Hi Gayathri,
I have already posted it here:
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/02/07/raglan-bodice-sleeve-pattern-styletips
I hope this link will do the needful! TC! Bye!
You actually make it seem so easy with your presentation but
I find this matter to be really something that I
think I would never understand. It seems too complicated and very broad for me.
I am looking forward for your next post, I’ll try to get the hang of
it!
Thank you so much for stopping by and leaving your feedback 🙂 Hope to reach you some day! TC! Bye! Keep smiling 🙂
Very helpfull for needing people.
Thank you Devendra for your kind words 🙂 TC! Keep smiling 🙂
Hi Sindhu, I liked your post very much and want to know how I could stitch a shoulder less raglan cut. I can send you a picture of what I want to stitch, but I don’t know how to upload a image file to this blog. I am talking about just a strip extending from under the arm to the back of neck like an inverted U instead of the actual shoulder. And the front neck being V. So the neck would look like an inverted U going behind the neck from a V neck. I can’t be more specific with out showing you a picture. I really appreciate your time. And hoping to hear back from you.