This post deals with pattern cutting and sewing (stitching) of a princess line (directed from neckline) blouse with raglan style.
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Our previous posts were about Princess Line – Types and Tips, Princess line Blouse – Pattern Making. Now, are you ready to know how did I stitch princess line blouse? Let’s go!
Fabric – Shell, Underlining and Lining
I took a dark leaf green chiffon sari as my shell (main) fabric. The blouse piece was with golden zari and sequin buttas. It was with a large emphasising floral motif for the back part. I decided not to use this directly for the blouse back. My idea was to make a yo-yo patch work of it.
Chiffon Fabric with zari motif and sequin buttas as Shell
I planned to use a golden tissue fabric as underlining for a shimmering effect. I selected a dark leaf green 2X2 material for lining.
Chiffon Shell And Golden Tissue underlining
Cutting Fabrics for Princess Line Blouse
I planned for pattern cutting. I placed lining material on fold. I placed centre back part and sleeves at the folded edge. I placed the remaining patterns as follows. I drew the pattern, carefully, along with notches.
Princess Line Blouse: Patterns Placed For Cutting
I cut the patterns in the lining material.
Princess Line Blouse: Patterns Cut
Later, I spread the shell (chiffon) material on the table. It was highly slippery. So, I placed the patterns cut on lining material and firmed it on the chiffon using pins. I cut them all. I had cut central back and sleeves patterns in a golden tissue material as well. I wanted to place them next to the chiffon shell as to add a shimmering effect.
Stitching Blouse
Step 1: Joining the shell, underlining and lining
In this project, my dark green blouse material is the shell fabric. Golden tissue fabric is used as underlining. 2X2 material is the lining fabric.
Back Parts
I took the centre back parts. I placed the golden tissue fabric and green chiffon fabric up on the lining material, facing right sides. I tacked the three layers using a basting stitch as shown.
Centre Back Panel – Basted To Join The Layers
I took side panels of back part. I placed them up on the lining material facing right sides. I did basting on the stitching line as shown.
Side Panel (Back) – Basted To Join The Layers
Front Parts
I took centre front panels. I placed them up on the lining parts and did basting on the stitching lines as shown. Then I took side panels of front part, placed them on the lining materials facing right sides.
Front Panels – Basted To Join The Layers
Raglan Sleeves
I placed golden tissue and green chiffon up on lining fabric, facing right sides. I did basting on the stitching lines as shown.
Raglan Sleeves – Basted To Join The Layers
I stitched along all the basted guide lines. Basting helped to avoid fabric slipping. Later, I turned all the panels inside out. I basted all the remaining open edges.
Step 2: Joining panels
Back Bodice Panels
There were three back panels, one centre back and two side panels. I joined the side panels to the centre panel matching the notches.
Princess Line Back Bodice – After Joining The Panels
Front Bodice Panels
Front panels include two centre front panels and two side panels. I sewed left side panel and left side front panel matching the notches. Similarly, I joined the right side panels.
Princess Line Front Bodice – After Joining The Panels
I took the front patti or fastening strips cut in shell and lining, each for each sides.
Hook And Eye Fastening Strip
I sewed the fastening strips to the centre.
Step 3: Joining Sleeves
Raglan Sleeves – Ready To Join
I took left side sleeve. I matched the front armscye (armhole curve) of the sleeve with the left side armscye of the front bodice. Slightly stretching at the required curved areas, I sewed and joined the armscye. Similarly, I joined back armscye of the left side.
In the same way, I sewed right side sleeve too. I had placed all the joining parts facing their right sides.
More details and pictures in the link: Magic fit Blouse (click here)
Step 4: Joining The Side Seams
I kept the front and back bodices facing right sides. I matched the notches and stitched along the side. I left almost 2 inch ease allowance. I turned the blouse right side out. I stitched hook and eye fasteners at the centre. The blouse looks as shown.
Raglan Sleeved – Princess Line Blouse Directed From Neck Line – Back
Raglan Sleeved – Princess Line Blouse Directed From Neck Line- Front
This is how I stitched Princess Line Blouse in a slippery (chiffon) fabric. I added a surface ornamentation using a yo-yo patch work method. I know, I have already taken your valuable time. So, let me share the final ornamentation part in the next week.
Thanks for your time!
Take care!
Bye until the next post!
Till then we could meet at The Arts & Me along with my daily posts!
What a skill!
I wish I knew this.
Thanks a lot for your kind words, Indrani! I believe, it wouldn’t be difficult for you to learn afresh as you are a creative person 🙂
You have a very detailed blog. Love it. I wish one day I’ll make a blouse as well. Thanks, Preethi.
Thank you so much Preethi 🙂 I am a fan of your kids creations 🙂 M sure you will make a blouse soon 🙂 TC! Keep smiling 🙂
Awesome work maam . Best among all other sewi.g blogs which I have ever gone through for learning pri.cess line blouse. Good work best effort
Thank you Priya 🙂 Glad you like it 🙂 In fact, I have started liking princess lines only because of you 🙂 TC! Keep smiling! Keep visiting Tantu 🙂
Hello,im ishu will u pls draft me how we take measurement for prince cut with measurement of normal blouse
Hi Ishu,
Hope you are doing good! Please refer to http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/01/22/diy-sari-blouse-basic-pattern/
and
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/01/29/how-to-make-princess-line-patterns-easily
Thanks for your visit to Tantu 🙂 TC! Visit again!
hi
your site is really mind blowing.
i easily learned the designer princess blouse and raglan sleeve, thank you.
it will be good if you can also post pictures for steps in aari work, especially the filling stitch and satin stitch in aari as i know the basics, please do help. i already tried in another site, but the vedio is not clear, please help me. thank you in advance.
Hi Preethi,
Hope you are fine!
Kindly excuse me for delay in my reply… Thank you for your feedback 🙂 I am so happy that my posts were of some use for you 🙂 Noted your requests, will surely post them as soon as possible 🙂
TC! Keep smiling 🙂
hi
Give the hints to stitch patches on a blouse
Hi Vindhya,
Thanks for your visit to Tantu 🙂 Could you be more clear? I guess you are asking about patchwork…
hi, thanks again for the amount of detail you put into these tutorials. I have never tried a sari blouse, will step into that territory with the skill instilled by you 🙂
Hi Jaya,
Happy that you found my posts interesting 🙂 Since you are a beginner, I would suggest you to refer to Basic Sari Blouse Pattern available in the following link:
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/01/22/diy-sari-blouse-basic-pattern/
Hope my tutorials would be useful for you 🙂 Best wishes for a would be sewer/dressmaker 🙂 TC! Keep smiling 🙂 Keep visiting 🙂
thanks sindhu, visit my blog.. i am a self-taught and internet-addicted dressmaker, started with clothes for my daughters, now sew for myself too. i have not attempted the coplicated patternmaking required for a asari blouse, is all. will update you on how it goes 🙂
Wow! Awesome blog! Sari blouse making won’t be a difficult task for you at all! Thanks for letting me know about your blog, then only I clicked on your name and was directed to your blog…
Following you on Bloglovin 🙂 TC! Keep smiling 🙂 I would be looking forward to your valuable feedback 🙂
Hi Sindhu..
Can you please provide the measurements and construction of the Princess cut saree blouse.
Thanks
Purnima
Hi Purnima,
Please refer to the following links:
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/01/22/diy-sari-blouse-basic-pattern/
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/01/29/how-to-make-princess-line-patterns-easily
I hope these posts would do the needful 🙂 Thanks for your stay at Tantu 🙂 TC! Keep smiling 🙂 Visit again!
Maam how to take the measuremeny for the pieces.
hi, i want to learn prince cut but i dnt knw how to start. i am clg student and i dnt knw how to sewing means i have not cmplted any course for sewing………..plz tell me frm where i hav to start?? paper cutting?? simple blause??
Hi Kasturi,
You can start learning from making patterns in paper. You can use brown papers or ordinary news papers as well. You may start with basic sari blouse pattern here:
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/01/22/diy-sari-blouse-basic-pattern/
And then refer to the following link:
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/01/29/how-to-make-princess-line-patterns-easily
Hope you succeed in the first attempt to make patterns 🙂 Best wishes 🙂
TC! Keep smiling 🙂
Such a detailed pictorial presentation..this is very much helpful even for beginners like me…Thanks alott dear Sindhu..keep going..all the best..
nicely explained thanks…