This DIY post is about making a basic pattern for sari blouse with minimum cuts and minimum darts. This pattern can be used as a base for any structural design variation in sari blouses, both useful for the beginners and the masters.
Hello!
How are you friend? I had been on a vacation and when I came back, I was happy to see my mailbox filled with mails from beloved Tantu Readers 🙂 Thank you so much for your love! And, there were many requests regarding pattern making. So, I have brought a pattern making post again!
This DIY basic pattern making for sari blouse post is in response to the requests by –
Ms. Arja, Ms. Vanathi and Ms. Joshma.
Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse
This sari blouse pattern is with waistline darts. As it is named, it is the most basic pattern for a sari blouse. Hence, the pattern is without waistband or any other cuts. Even though this pattern looks similar to the basic sloper, it is slightly different in its fit.
Let’s start with the measurements.
Measurements Needed:
Shoulder Measurement:
Taken between two shoulder ends or nape of the neck to one shoulder end and doubled. When neckline depth is more than 1/6th of the bust round, shoulder measurement is taken about 3cm to 4cm less on each side.
Armscye Depth or Armhole Depth:
Taken by direct measurement or calculated from the Bust Circumference.
It is the best to measure the armscye depth directly on the body for accurate measurement. It is measured straight from the shoulder end to about ½ an inch below the armpit. Armscye depth varies from 13cm – 18cm (or about 5 inch – 7 inch) in the increasing order from the small sizes to the larger ones.
Armscye depth can be calculated from the bust circumference in many of the ways by different dressmakers for different outfits.
For a sari blouse, following calculation is found to be the best.
1/6th of Bust Circumference
Front & Back Neck depths:
Taken directly on the body or taken from an existing garment.
Bust Circumference:
Taken around the fullest part of the bust.
Waist Circumference:
Taken around the navel point.
Bust Point or Pivot Point:
Taken straight down the shoulder to the bust point.
Waist Length:
Taken from the nape of the neck to the desired length of the blouse.
Drafting & Cutting Instructions For A Basic Blouse With Waistline Dart
Front Part:
Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse With Waist Line Darts – Front Bodice
1. Square down centre front line and shoulder lines.
Centre Front Line: Waist Length + 1cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam allowance at waist
Shoulder Line: ½ of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance
Shoulder can be taken square or sloped. This depends up on the garment to be made. Since a sari blouse is usually of wide neck, no slope is suggested here.
2. Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4th of the Bust Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam allowance is useful for alterations.
3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth. Draw front armhole shape about 1cm inward this dropped line.
4. Square Waist Line at the bottom of the Centre Front Line. Take 1/4th Waist Circumference + 5cm dart allowance + 5cm seam allowance. Give a rounded shape at the sides.
5. Dart: Take 1/12th of the Bust Circumference + 2.5cm at waist from the centre front. Draw an upright line. Measure a point at about 3cm from the waist. (Note: This will be the starting point of the waist, exactly under the bust part.)
Waist Band Part Highlighted
Mark a Dart of about 5cm here taking 2.5cm on each side. Measure and mark Bust Point on the same line from the shoulder. Dart point will be about 2cm below the bust point. Draw a dart as shown.
6. Join the end points of Armscye Depth line and waist line.
7. Draw desired front neckline.
8. Cut along the highlighted outline excluding the darts as shown.
Back Part:
Basic Pattern for Sari Blouse With Waist Line Darts – Back Bodice
1. Square down centre back line and shoulder lines.
Centre Back Line: Waist Length + 1 cm for seam allowance at shoulder + 1cm seam allowance at waist
Shoulder Line: ½ of Shoulder Measurement + 1cm seam allowance
2. Square Armscye Depth down the Centre Back Line. Take 1/4th of the Bust Circumference + 1cm ease + 5cm seam allowance, horizontally. This wide seam allowance is useful for alterations.
3. Drop a straight line from shoulder end on to Armscye Depth. Draw back armhole shape on this dropped line.
4. Square Waist Line at the bottom of the Centre Back Line. Take 1/4th Waist Circumference + 2cm dart allowance + 5cm seam allowance. You may need to shape the waistline a little to match it to the front.
5. Dart: Mark a dart on the waist line at 1/12th of Bust Circumference + 1cm. This dart is about 7cm in length with 1cm width on each side.
6. Join the end points of Armscye Depth line and waist line.
7. Draw desired back neckline. This is usually kept deeper than that in the front.
8. Cut along the highlighted outline as shown.
Fastening:
Fastening can be given in the centre front or in the centre back. Add 1cm seam allowance for the attachment of hook and eye fastening strips.
We are done!
Well, I must mention the uses of this basic pattern.
Significance of Having A Basic Bodice Pattern
- This is the basic and the simplest pattern for sari blouse excluding waist bands and extra darts. Construction is simple for the beginners.
- Any style variation in the neckline can be tried on this pattern. For high necks, a shoulder slope is given.
- This pattern serves as a base for all the types of princess lines. For details on princess lines, click here. Just exclude the darts without a need to press the pattern as given here.
- Easy to add length.
- Back or front fastening styles are easily adapted. This pattern is excluding the seam allowance for fastening. 1cm seam allowance is to be added at the centre (front or back) to give an opening.
So, did you find this DIY post useful? Your valuable feedback and suggestions help me to understand your requirements 🙂 After all, Tantu is for you!
Expect a detailed post on adapting this basic sari blouse pattern into a princess line pattern soon.
Let me sign off for now!
TC!
Bye Until the next post!
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Have tried and failed to stitch a blouse… Need to try this…
Thanks for stopping by Preethi! Please do try and let me know the result!
Keep smiling! TC!
Ahaa.. this is so gooood.. I love DIYs… but I dont have a stiching machine..lol.. but, have bookmarked it.. will try it on my aunt’s machine. You teach well 🙂
Welcome to Tantu! Thanks for your compliments and bookmark Namrota 🙂 Let me know how it works 🙂
Keep visiting! TC!
your blog is very informative…looking forward to more posts….keep blogging!
Welcome to Tantu and thank you Kimi! Keep visiting! TC!
Thanks for this great information…….I love it.
Thanks
Glad you like this post. Thanks for stopping by. TC! Keep smiling 🙂
Wow very well explained.
Thank you and welcome to Tantu! Have a good day! Keep smiling & keep visiting! TC!
Very detailed post.
Thank you Indrani! You are so kind! TC!
It is so….good. I like ur blog.it is very helpful to the bigeners.basic pattern for sari blouse is to…good.aanu modals stich maadutta edde.ega Ella bettede.edu nodeda mele puna stich madakku heli auttu.thank u sindu
Thank you so much for your visit and your liking for Tantu 🙂 Oh! Ninga stitch madigondittira! Glad that Tantu is inspiring you! Ningala preetiya maatugalinge dhanyavaaadagalu 🙂 TC!
Hi Sindhu,
I was really looking for this. Let me try and update you on the feedback. so well explained.
Thanks dear,
Bhuvana
Hey Bhuvana! Thanks for your visit and for the lovable words 🙂 Will wait for your feedback 🙂 TC!
You make it look so simple! But, I don’t know how to use the sewing-machine 🙂 Blouse-pieces are waiting to be stitched 🙂 Nice DIY instructions 🙂
Thank you Anita! You are always kind! Hope you buy a sewing machine soon and start stitching your own! Glad you are here! Visit again! TC!
I nominated you for the Liebster award!
xxx
Dee
Thank you so much! Will write a post soon! TC!
thanks for detailed DIY. I’ll try n let you know soon.
Hey, Arja! Pleasant comeback! Hope you are doing good! Thanks for the compliments, eager to know the results 🙂 TC! Visit again!
i always look for something like this. i will give it a try thanks a lot
Glad to know that this is something that could help you! Thanks for you time and your words for this post 🙂
Hi Sindhu, Nice blog and keep it coming. One of my observations in most of the drafts is that for the shoulder line it is 1/2 shoulder + 1 cm or so. I understand that this is the basic draft. As the back neckline deepens, this shoulder measurement will not work and the blouse will fall off the shoulder. SO the shoulder measurement has to be accordingly decreased as I understand. Is there any standard measurement for this like Neck deep to Shoulder measurement chart? Will appreciate your inputs on this.
Hi Sunitha,
So sorry for delayed reply to your comment.
Thanks for your kind words, they encourage me a lot! Yes, I agree with you, as the neckline deepens more than 3inches, we need to reduce the shoulder width. I am doing a research on Indian and other pattern making methods worldwide and will publish a post on the same shortly. Thanks so much for your inputs regarding this 🙂 You are always welcome to discussion in anything related to garmenting/textiles/fashion 🙂
Keep visiting and help Tantu grow 🙂
TC! Bye! Keep smiling!
Great post!!!!!!!!!!Can i make princess cut blouse from same?If yes,then what are the changes to be made in the above mention diagram, esp.the arm syce part. Thanks in advance
Hi Paru,
How are you? Thank you for your feedback 🙂
Yes, you can make Princess-line blouse from these patterns. I have posted about it here:
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/01/29/how-to-make-princess-line-patterns-easily
Another post about making princess-line pattern from darted blouse pattern is here:
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2013/10/30/princess-line-pattern-making/
If you are a beginner, I would suggest you to follow the first link and if you know to make darted sada blouse, then you may follow the second link 🙂
I hope my answer would be useful 🙂 TC! Keep smiling 🙂
I got answer to my query in one of your post .Again thanks for well xplained tutorial. I fail to understand why it is curve on both the sides of front bodice while back bodice remain unchange.pl help.
Hi Paru,
Hope you are doing good. I am extremely sorry for making you wait so long.
Regarding your question: Are you asking about the curves formed in the front princess line? If yes, the answer is that the front blouse part covers the bust which is curvy and hence the two princess-cut panels of front are curvy while the back parts are not.
I hope I have clarified your doubt 🙂 Feel free to ask anything. Because, you never know if others are also in need of an answer for the same 🙂
Tc! Bye! Keep visiting!
Its very useful…easy to follow…thank u sindhu..can u pl post front part of the blouse cutting pl. ?..your method one is easy to understand.
Hi Sindhu,
Nice meeting you!!! Thanks for your visit and for your valuable words 🙂 It would be a great pleasure to help you, please let me know which type of front part of blouse cutting you would like to read, plain or yoked?
TC! Keep smiling and keep visiting!
Really you are a very responsible person.because with in tight time schedule you are spending ur time with our comments and queries. Really saying thank you with total happiness, because no one do such a big work what u did now. Here i m asking front part of cross cutting blouse. And also give some idea to making fit darts for front portion.once again thank you so much.
Dear Sindhu,
Thanks for the compliments and accept my apology for the late reply. Are you asking about princess-line blouses? I have already posted about princess line at the links given below:
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/01/29/how-to-make-princess-line-patterns-easily
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2013/10/21/what-is-princess-line/
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2013/10/30/princess-line-pattern-making/
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2013/11/06/stitching-princess-line-blouse/
I hope these links would be helpful for you 🙂 Any questions/queries are welcome 🙂
TC! Bye! Keep smiling and visit again!
very much useful. I am going to stitch a blouse for me. thank you.
Hello! Thanks a lot for stopping by! I would love to know about your experience 🙂 TC! Bye! Keep smiling and keep visiting!
This great! I have forgotten my procedures in pattern making.
Thank you!
Thanks Jeanne! Glad that my post helped you to refresh your knowledge 🙂 Hope you had a pleasant stay here 🙂 TC! Bye! Keep smiling and visit again 🙂
You have brought up a very good details , thankyou for the post. adcdbgbdebak
Thank you! glad that you like it 🙂
I regret to say I am not so good with fabric but if I was going to try I think I would start right here. Your instructions are so clearly detailed I am sure even I could have a go and make something wearable.
Thank you so much for stopping by! I am glad that you like my posts and my posts inspire you to start sewing 🙂 TC! Keep smiling 🙂
You have a very interesting and informative blog.
Thanks for your appreciation 🙂 TC! Keep smiling 🙂
Hi, found your instructions extremely valuable, Could you also please give the instructions to make the pattern for sleeves and front patti. If a person is short, how do you adjust the patti width, because I find that I have to increase the back length and this sometimes makes the back too long.
Thanking you in advance…
Hi Nandhini,
Happy to have you and your valuable words for my post 🙂 I have covered a post on pattern making of basic set-in sleeve here: http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/02/27/drafting_basic_or_plain_set-in_sleeves_pattern
Regarding your doubts, as per my understanding:
We need the length measurements and girth measurements (here waist length, bust, upper arm round and sleeve length) and if a person is short or much healthy, the pattern is made anyways based on the measurements. Hence, any width and length issues should not come. If you are talking about using ready patterns available in the market, then we need to have a discussion regading this 🙂
Hope I have made it clear. TC! Keep smiling 🙂
Dear Ma’am
I love the way u present u r blog. Neat n detailed.
Dear Priya,
Thank you very much for your appreciation and feedback 🙂 Happy to have you here! TC! Keep smiling 🙂
i could not find the sleeves measurement. did you mean a sleeveless blouse?
Hi Rocky,
Thank you for stopping by. You may go through another post about sleeves construction here:
http://varnatantu.wordpress.com/2014/02/27/drafting_basic_or_plain_set-in_sleeves_pattern/
TC! Keep smiling 🙂
Thanks , I must try it once, I have always stitched my clothes, I stitch katori cut blouse for myself, it is comfortable. I use to stitch for my children long back but now only for myself:) Lakshmi
Thank you Lakshmiji for your kind words 🙂 Please let me know about the result… A sewer can review this pattern better! TC! Keep smiling 🙂
Thank you for the simplicity of the instructions. I teach mostly western style pattern cutting and wanted to learn the simple sari blouse instructions. I will draft this and demonstrate to my students. I lecture at a college in the UK and Asian students always ask about blouses. Could you also show a tutorial on Chudidhar please the bag method. Thanks
Thank you very much for your valuable feedback 🙂 Hope your students liked it as well! Mmmm, hopefully the bag method tutorial will be posted as soon as possible… TC! keep smiling 🙂
Good explanation
Thank you Tanu,
Visit again! TC!
Thank you so much. Very well explained. Really helpful.
Pleasure is mine! Glad you like it and found it useful 🙂
TC! Keep smiling 🙂
Great post sindhoo!!
Thank you 🙂
This pattern is fine for a A or B cup size blouse.. the real challenge is to make a pattern for a DD or E cup size… would appreciate a pattern for curvy sizes too…
Mam I have one silk saree plz suggest a blouse design for that
Hi Gomathi,
Glad you thought my ideas would be useful for you 🙂 You may e mail me the photo to sindhoooo@gmail.com so that we can discuss it further.
TC! Keep smiling 🙂
Very help to ma ke a Saree blous. It is very easy to make a blouse.
Mam…I just saw ur links and all…so refined…I dreamt to become a professional designer but I couldn’t …but still doing my own way of designs on my little darling. …I just wanted to know Wether u design and stitch for any random customers or u have shop that I could visit. …I’m actually in dehradun….so online suits if u have any. ….and do need to know whether u do for kids tooo….
Hello Vaishnavi Madam,
Glad to have compliments for my write ups from a design enthusiast 🙂 I am not yet taking sewing orders nor I own a design house even though they are in my ‘to do list’. As of now I don’t have any suggestions for your requirements as you live in Dehradun and I am so sorry about it. Will let you know if I find any to suggest.
Thanks for writing. TC, keep smiling 🙂
wanted to stitch a blouse for myself as am tired of visiting tailors thanks a lot … ill giv a try
Hi,
I stiched one blouse with 9″ back neck depth…. The problem is the blouse is coming off the shoulder. I think the shoulder measurement was the problem. Can you please tell me the shoulder measurement for that neck depth.
Thanks
Hi can you please tell me if this pattern will give a tight fit Around the bust ? You the curves are not covered well with just one dart. This pattern is good to convert to princess style but normal blouse it woo look baggy right ? Do you have a pic of how it fits ?
Also without armhole dart won’t the armhole be loose fitting ?
Thanks for sharing the tutorial. Eagerly waiting for your replies
Hi my question is regarding the full bust measurement. This coincides with the end of arm syce deptht as per your draft. Where as in reality the full bust is not where the arm syce ends. The full bust can be lower, so in this case won’t there be excess fabric under arm ? Also the side seam won’t be a straight line from waist to arm syce end. How do you draft for this case please suggest. Also thanks for sharing so many nice tutorials on your blog.
Waiting for your reply.
Tia
My size is of 4 inches bust.would it be applicable
Hi sindhoo long time I couldn’t message you as I became busy with my school since handling grade 10,but 9 years back I was following your blog with great enthu and asked so many queries, even today I see those comments in your comment box and u have answered it patiently, now lockdown has again brought that artist in me out, want to try on many things at this time, so started following u my favourite u are,good to see varantantu from tantu,
I am planning to try tie and dye can u post something also some stitching patterns, I guess the last that I asked was umbrella dress
Good to be back and follow you